It was a blissful feeling. I arrived in Barcelona with no agenda whatsoever. All I had to do in the next few days was to explore the city all by myself — and at my own pace. I wasn’t going to hire a guide to take me around Antoni Gaudi’s incomplete church and I didn’t need anyone to show me around the famous Picasso museum tucked away in a quiet corner of the city.

Come to think of it, I could make it on my own to watch the ships at the Port of Barcelona, which connects over 825 ports around the world and also to go on a tapas eating spree and discover places where freshly caught seafood was served.

I made a good start by figuring one key feature of the city’s geography — all roads lead to the La Rambla. This is a street in central Barcelona dotted with shops, restaurants and kiosks.

One of my first stops was at the towering statue of Christopher Columbus. Being in an adventurous mood, I took an elevator 50m to the top of the statue — only to regret it as soon as I reached the top. I realised I didn’t have a head for heights.

The next day I started out again with only a city map for company and comfortable shoes to see me along the way. It was a relief not to have a guide or travel companions who would have either kept me waiting or hurried me up every time I tried to capture an amazing sight on my camera.

Barcelona is located on the Mediterranean and the view from the aeroplane as it descends is breathtaking. You see an unruffled blue sea all around. The air’s fresh with just a slight nip in the air. Even in December, a jacket is enough and you don’t need gloves or a scarf.

It’s a great city for wandering about on foot. I walked about 5km to 10km every day but I hardly noticed it because it was fun walking on the cobbled streets dotted with little shops and boutiques.

And every day, I would discover something new. I found electronic stores and supermarkets run by Indians. There was also a smart Indian restaurant called Indian Bollywood, which is known for activities like Bollywood-style dancing several nights a week.

I was staying not far from La Rambla and I wandered over there every day. It has an interesting market and something is bound to catch your eye. I stopped by at the florists selling everything from seeds, cacti and roses to tulips and ferns. There were also hawkers selling pets. You can get a baby turtle for 60 euros and a white rat for 20 euros. Also on sale were goldfish and even a pair of mongoose.

And, of course, there was heaps of street theatre. One man was dressed in a Red Indian costume and another pretended to be dead and lay in a coffin. Yet another was dressed like a grizzly bear and there was even one walking around in a vegetable outfit.

Barcelona is a major port connecting 825 destinations around the world
The trick is to drop them a coin or two and they’ll happily pose for you. But if you try to take photographs without parting with cash, they’ll hide their faces.

One of the many streets off La Rambla leads to the Picasso museum, where I found myself after a pleasant walk. It was built in 1963 and sprawls over five Gothic palaces, once home to Barcelona’s aristocrats.

The museum exhibits Pablo Picasso’s early works, mostly done during his formative years in Barcelona. His original works are, of course, impressive. I was particularly fascinated by the Las Meninas series and also the original sketch of Las Meninas.

One man you cannot escape in Barcelona is architect Antoni Gaudi, who has left a deep imprint on the city. I wandered around and spotted works like the Casa Batlló building. This is one of Gaudi’s masterpieces though it has a very haunted air about it.

Also, I made a pilgrimage to see Gaudí’s incomplete Colonia Güell chapel in Sagrada Familia, about 15 minutes from La Rambla. The incomplete church where building work started in 1899 is still under construction and you can see helmeted workers wandering about. A very touristy spot, it has hawkers all around selling souvenirs and snacks. But don’t eat here.

Boats at harbour in Barcelona

To try the local Catalonian food, head towards the Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria market, popularly known as La Boqueria. Close to La Rambla, you’ll find rows of vegetable vendors surrounded by a sea of brightly coloured veggies.

Then there was freshly caught seafood from the Mediterranean like squid, octopus, prawns and kettle fish. I didn’t buy the fish for obvious reasons but I did take away fresh strawberries and dates.

In the middle of this chaotic market there are three restaurants. One of them became a regular haunt because I could have a mix of grilled seafood and grilled assorted vegetables. When I felt like tapas I headed to the fancier restaurants on the high street.

One fine evening I figured I had had enough of the busy streets, so I headed off to a slightly different spot — the Port of Barcelona. I found myself a vantage point from where I could watch the ships sailing away. It was a great spot and best enjoyed all on one’s own.

Source: https://www.telegraphindia.com

Hoihnu Hauzel got a taste of Balinese hospitality at its luxurious best at the uber plush Bulgari Resort

At dawn, Bali was a picture of perfect tranquillity. I opened my window and let in the fresh breeze that came blowing in straight from the Indian Ocean that lay sparkling in front of me. The gentle winds ruffled through the lush greenery planted in rows all around the resort which was my temporary home.

At the Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, Bali the air was filled with the perfume from a profusion of white, red and pink frangipanis. And, if that wasn’t enough, I was resting in our private villa next to the lap pool. We had an al fresco dining area for when we wanted to have a meal by ourselves. And our personal butler was hovering around ready to obey our every command.

Soon after breakfast, I wandered down to the resort’s private beach. The resort is perched at the top of a cliff and you can only get to the beach in the hotel’s inclined elevator which makes it way down through a carpet of trees and shrubs. From the elevator landing zone it’s just a short walk to the beach itself.

It was still early in the morning and I had the beach to myself. Well, I was all alone except for scores of baby crabs and starfish shell that are washed up by the waves.

Paddy’s Pub in Kuta is a perfect hangout for tourists; Pic by Hoihnu Hauzel
This is the best time to get a feel of the spirit of the island. Later, as I ventured outside the resort, I wandered past rows of paddy fields. The lush terraces of green crops give the island an unmatched beauty.

This is Bulgari’s second hotel and it has pulled out all the stops to up the luxury quotient and make it a stand-out experience. One special feature of the property is its secluded location. To get there, we made our way through narrow, empty lanes and finally reached Pecatu village. Soon afterwards we arrived at the hotel’s grand entrance. And no expense has been spared. Scattered all around are exquisite Balinese antiques and exotic art pieces. I got a hotel staffer to count all of them and he returned to tell me that there are about 90.

Every object in the resort has received the designer touch. The woven fabrics, for instance, have been exclusively customised by the resort’s Italian architects (Antonio Citterio and Partners) in collaboration with local artists and designers.

The resort’s 59 luxury villas have walls lined with superior bangkiray hardwood (highly-rated timber). And the outdoor showers and, the plunge and swimming pools are finished with natural green sukabumi stone which is special to Indonesia. The electronic gadgets in the villa were the best on offer from Bang & Olufsen.

Tranquil paddy fields and quaint villages dot the island of Bali
I spent many hours lounging about, with a book in hand, on our villa’s wooden sun deck. The large lap pool stretched out into my private garden dotted with seasonal flowers.

But we didn’t eat in our villa too often. It was worth taking the walk to the resort’s specialty restaurants for sumptuous Italian and Indonesian spreads. The restaurants have an extremely stylish all-black décor. And there’s a bar in the middle of a huge water body where I spent many hours nursing a drink.

But Bali’s a lovely place and there was no point in spending all my time in the resort. At Jimbaran, which is known for the seafood shacks and restaurants, I made a smart move: befriended a chef who cooked us fresh seafood whenever we visited. Then, there’s Kuta, the most popular beach in the region which has hordes of tourists, pushy hawkers and local masseurs roaming with bottles of herbal oil for a Balinese massage.

Nearby there’s the memorial site for the 2002 Bali bomb blast. I joined many other tourists who gathered around the memorial to read the names of the victims. Paddy’s Pub, where the blast took place, is up and running once again and it has the national flags of many countries flying outside.

The white-sand beaches of Kuta in southern Bali are considered the best on the island
At Legian, another beach, you can have a good Balinese spread served in a quieter ambience. Or, there’s Seminyak which is the ultimate upscale hangout. It’s a hub of luxury accommodation, fashionable high-end restaurants, bars, boutique and spas. It’s laid-back with a different energy.

Here you’ll spot only the smart set in stylish outfits. On a friend’s advice, I patiently waited for a table at Ku De Ta — a restaurant that was buzzing with activity. After the wait I got a genuine Balinese meal. And, believe me, like all of Bali, it was well worth the wait.

TRAVEL TALK

Getting there: Jet Airways, Air India, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways and Malaysian Airlines all operate Delhi-Bali flights via their home bases.

Where to stay: Book in advance at the Bulgari Resort, Bali, for villas overlooking the Indian Ocean (www.bulgarihotels.com) or at the Four Seasons (www.fourseasons.com)
https://www.telegraphindia.com/1120826/jsp/graphiti/story_15896594.jsp
The Telegraph, Sunday, August 26, 2012 |

Morocco's culinary capital treats you to a round-the-clock flavour fest that's a gourmet's delight, says Hoihnu Hauzel

Deep inside Marrakech, the aroma of freshly brewed peppermint tea simply hangs in the air — at every street corner and practically everywhere that I go. It's the first drink I'm offered when I check-in at the hotel and it's what most shopkeepers use to lure shoppers and tourists into their shops yelling: "Come have some Moroccan tea — even if you don't buy anything."

In the lobby of Sofitel Marrakech where I'm staying, an old man occupies a corner with his tea-set and ingredients and serves tea to every guest through the day. He shreds the twigs from a bunch of peppermint, dunks the leaves in the waiting silver tea pot and pours the brew from a fair height into the waiting cup. "It tastes better if you do it this way," he says by way of explanation.

I arrived in Marrakech, the fourth largest city of Morocco in north Africa, looking forward to taking in an exotic land that's steeped in a rich history. I hit the city in the wee hours after an easy three-hour drive from Casablanca. But Marrakech, considered one of the busiest and most attractive tourist destinations in the Dark Continent, was wide awake. Bright-eyed tourists were everywhere — walking around its streets, chilling out in cafs, restobars and restaurants.

Being a former French protectorate — the French influence in Morocco continues to be strong and not knowing the language can prove to be a major handicap. Home to many fancy hotels including Richard Branson's famous Kasbah Tamadot, an hour's drive from the main city, Marrakech is a lively city of contrasts.

I discovered the city through the help of an all-knowing hotel concierge who gifted me a copy of the city food guide that eventually led me to places that I would never have been able to locate on my own.

The tagine, the funnel-shaped clay pot, is used to cook some traditional Moroccan dishes

I couldn't wait to learn more about tagine — the funnel-shaped clay cooking pot in which traditional Moroccan dishes are prepared.

My first stop was a lively place called Jad Mahal. The candles lit all along the wooden walkways of what looked like a private bungalow converted into an eatery, were enticing.

The ambience was electric what with the heavily draped curtains, sparkling chandeliers, framed mirrors, ornamented walls and psychedelic lights. I opted for tangia marrakchia de boeuf, mutton stew cooked slowly in the traditional clay bowl with saffron, cumin and the famous spice ras-el hanout, a special spice used for cooking mutton. Cheesecake with flavourful Moroccan dates rounded off the meal.

There's always something to cheer diners here. Like that evening when the mellow music was suddenly replaced by an Arabic tune. Out of nowhere sprang a group of belly dancers in harem-pants and flowy tunics. Some excited diners tucked crisp currency notes into their waistbands.

The next day I headed to the Piano Bar at the Royal Mansour Place, arguably the most luxurious hotel in Morocco. Built by the present king of Morocco, it's designed like a palace with riads (traditional old homes or palaces that had gardens or courtyards inside) and features private courtyards, hand-made Persian tile flooring and shimmering curtains. The bar is outfitted with furniture crafted in the finest ostrich leather. The platter of olives spiked with chillies, treated with ginger, herbs and oil were perfect to rev up my appetite.

The opulent Piano Bar at the Royal Mansour Place is outfitted with furniture crafted in ostrich leather; Pic by Hoihnu Hauzel

Another evening, I was charmed by La Mamounia, an 18th century resort. Surrounded by landscaped gardens, the resort sits in the middle of a 19-acre area. At the Moroccan restaurant, Le Morocain that's set discreetly in the spacious garden, the traditional version of lamb tagine was a revelation. The dish was inspired by the Berber style of cooking, the Berbers being indigenous people of Morocco who cook their meat with any vegetable that is available in their kitchens. So, my tagine arrived with carrots and potatoes along with the chunky meat just as the Berbers would cook it.

My gastronomic journey also took me to Villa des Orangers, an old riad that's converted into a boutique hotel. The resort owner, Pascal Beherec has left no stone unturned and transformed the old riad, built in the 1930s, into a charming place that's retained its original structure. Each of the rooms are done in different themes with antiques shipped from as far as Rajasthan and Malaysia.

I accessed the dining areas through layers of courtyards and fountains. Over the most delicate foie gras followed by ravioli tossed with lobster, I promised Pascal, my host for that evening that I would be back again for yet another delectable meal. But not until I washed down my meal with yet another cup of Moroccan tea.

TRAVEL LOG

Getting there: International carriers including Lufthansa, British Airways, Air India and Jet Airways fly to Marrakech.

Staying there: For the ultimate in luxury try Royal Mansour Place (http://www.royalmansour.com). Or check out La Moumunia (http://www.mamounia.com). For homely yet customised service there's Villa Des Orangers (www.villadesorangers.com)
https://www.telegraphindia.com/1130310/jsp/graphiti/16652348.jsp
The Telegraph, Sunday, March 10, 2013

Hard-boiled eggs are comfort food for the Taiwanese. So, for many, eggs are a year-round staple. And they are no ordinary eggs that the Taiwanese knock back — rather they're sweet-scented and slow-cooked for hours with a variety of condiments to impart a particular aroma, colour and flavour. That's how particular the Taiwanese are about these humble chicken eggs.

Deep inside Taiwan, I'm intrigued by the sight of these aromatic boiled eggs. A first-timer to the island, I stand agog and watch the Taiwanese demolish eggs over breakfast, lunch and dinner. At home or in public places, they munch on hard-boiled eggs which they regularly pick up from street vendors or convenience stores. Now even 7-Eleven, a chain of departmental stores, is selling ready-to-eat eggs and trumpeting its record-breaking figures of 40 million tea eggs per year. The only conclusion can be that the locals seem to be eating eggs like never before!

Soon after checking-in at the hotel in Taipei, I made a beeline for a 7-Eleven store for my first encounter with a live station dispensing eggs. It was evening and hungry customers were queuing up for the eggs that are kept over a low fire. The egg station was steamy with vapour escaping from the pot filled with eggs.

Tea eggs are popular and come with a dark brown tone that gives the impression of them having been dipped in a dye. Usually cooked in large pots with condiments like cinnamon, star anise, fennel, soya sauce or wild mushroom and black tea bags, the trick lies in cooking them in large quantities. Once the eggs are boiled, they're cracked to let the flavour seep in. Then the flame is lowered to maintain a certain temperature.

Eggs (above and below) are cooked with all kinds of ingredients like soy sauce, tea, and even assorted condiments; (top) the Ci-En Pagoda was built by Chiang Kai-shek in memory of his mother. Pics by Hoihnu Hauzel

Since the process is tedious, people seldom cook eggs at home. Francis Hu, my guide, recalls how his parents, who fled from China, cooked eggs at home for him and his siblings when they were kids. But he and his wife prefer to buy from convenience stores.

This tradition of eggs is believed to have been popularised by immigrants from China who came along with Chiang Kai-shek, the former premier of the Republic of China, after a civil war broke out in China in 1946. Traditionally, in China, where it all began, the Chinese are known to boil their eggs with only whole spices like cloves, fennel seeds, cinnamon and peppercorns as these impart the maximum flavour and aroma.

If tea eggs are what the Chinese brought in, the Dutch and the Japanese who ruled the island at different times left behind their culinary influences too. Ready-to-eat sushi in fancy boxes and Western desserts are everywhere — from upmarket hotels to humble street shops. There's also a variety of multinational food chains brought in by modernisation, yet the youngsters still have appetite for good old tea eggs.

One evening as I browsed in the buzzing Ning Xia Night Market in Western Taipei, I saw vendors bring their cache of eggs in hot pots which they placed over stoves. The eggs were already flavoured with spices, they required no further accompaniments. I lost count of the number that I demolished.

One late afternoon at Tainan city, which is the base of Ten Drums, an art percussion group of Taiwan, I had another encounter with the delicious eggs. After sitting through an hour-long instrumental rendition by the group, we stepped outside the auditorium and saw a vendor surrounded by hungry people who had just got out from the show. Clearly, I thought, eggs are also a popular late afternoon snack.

Three hours away from Taipei, in Nantau, around the Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan's largest water body, I took a ferry from my hotel to go up a mountain. Up there, I join many others who are on their way to see the Ci-En Pagoda, a memorial built by Chiang Kai-shek in memorial of his mother.

not
Not to scale; Map by Nilratan Maity

At the foot of the mountain which is accessed by stone steps, a serpentine queue marked a little shop selling tea eggs! This lone shop that sells thousands of eggs per day is owned by a lady who became rich selling eggs. Locals come here only for the eggs but with the hope of seeing the lady who is now too old to run the shop. Her children now run the show and still do brisk business.

The next morning, at the hotel breakfast buffet, I am naturally led towards the live counter of tea eggs. Just that and nothing, or may be jasmine tea to wash them down. Indeed a heart warming dish — even for tourists.

READY RECKONER

Getting there: China Airlines flies directly from New Delhi to Taipei. Others like Thai Airways, Cathay Pacific, Malaysian Airlines and Singapore Airlines fly to Taipei with stop-overs in their own city of origin

Where to stay: From basic accommodation to luxury hotels, Taiwan offers a range of options

https://www.telegraphindia.com/1140216/jsp/graphiti/17924430.jsp
The Telegraph, Sunday, February 16, 2014

In Taiwan, I’m intrigued by the sight and sounds – it’s people and culture – awakens me in every sense. There is so much to write home about this island that one trip is certainly not enough. Equally enticing is the buzz of the modernity that comfortably blends with its culture. The superb infrastructure is another factor that’s inviting. It promises a smooth commute from national scenic areas, amusement parks, shopping malls and entertainment zones.

What’s noteworthy is, despite a big wave of modernity, how this small island nation just 180 km east of China keeps its culture intact is quite something.

Being the world’s 20th largest economy that occupies an undisputed high-tech hardware hub for decades is also something that goes in their favour when visitors step into this island.

Sun Moon Lake

So, there I was lured everywhere I went. At Nantou County, the second largest county of Taiwan, for instance, I spent a reflective time by the magnificent lake, Sun Moon Lake, an iconic historical wealth of the Taiwanese that is replete with history. It was this very lake that once apparently drew Chiang Kai-Shek to the lake. He fell in love with the lake when he landed in the island, he took refuge in the natural setting as it reminded him of China, his homeland.
All along the lake, one can now see modern resorts sporting a rather contemporary architecture that’s slowly redefining the landscape of the island. The only people I encountered along the way were sweet and smiling locals who were more than happy to shake hands with foreigners marching into their territory, indicating that it’s a friendly country.

Zhongbu Cross-island Highway
And when I drove through the central Cross Island Highway, which is an important link between the west coast and the east of the island, it was only natural that I was awestruck by this gigantic highway. The highway is a superb example of how the Taiwanese has successfully built a route through a winding mountainous road made made it quite a display of their heritage. History has it that this highway was Cheng Kai She’s elder son, a military general, was instrumental in the construction of this 190-km long highway in 1954.

Photo of Zhongbu Cross-island Highway, 詒福里, Taichung City, Taiwan by Taiwan Tourism
Hualien
What reflects a nation’s culture is its culinary repertoire to which Taiwan again scores. Every meal I ate was all about celebrating that diverse and rich gastronomic wealth of the country. That the country fiercely promotes family-run enterprises is heartwarming. Like the family-run dumpling joint in Huwalien, on the East coast of Taiwan, about three hours’ drive from Taipei, where I had one of the most sumptuous and authentic meal. I slurped on those fresh helpings of wantons or dumplings floating in a clear soup garnished with chopped coriander made with passion. There were framed photographs of a young man clad in a military gear and enjoying a meal. The serving staff volunteered to be my guide and told me that the young man was Chiang Kai-Shek’s son who often came to enjoy this simple delicacy with his friends.

That it also still reserve a place of pride for its very iconic yet comfort food – hard boiled eggs – is also commendable. So, for many, eggs are a year-round staple. And they are no ordinary eggs that the Taiwanese knock back -- but rather are sweet-scented and slow-cooked for hours with a variety of condiments to impart a particular aroma, colour and flavour. That’s how particular the Taiwanese are about these humble eggs.

At home or in public places, they munch on hard boiled eggs which they regularly pick up from street vendors or convenience stores.

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall

This tradition of eggs is believed to have been popularised by immigrants from China who came along with Chiang Kai-shek, the former premier of the Republic of China after a civil war broke out in China in 1946. Traditionally, in China, where it all began, the Chinese are known to boil their eggs with only whole spices like cloves, fennel seeds, cinnamon and peppercorns as these impart the maximum flavour and aroma. If tea eggs are what the Chinese brought in, the Dutch and the Japanese who ruled the island at different times left behind their culinary influences. Ready-to-eat sushi in fancy boxes and Western desserts are everywhere -- from upmarket hotels to humble street shops. There also a variety of multinational food chains brought in by modernisation, yet the youngsters still have appetite for good old tea eggs.

Tainan City

Another late afternoon at Tainan city, which is the base of Ten Drums, an art percussion group of Taiwan, I surrendered myself to the hour-long instrumental rendition by the group – a revelation of all senses.

Taiwan is so well tuned to receive not just cultural buffs and I see families with kids heading to those well-kept amusement parks, natural arenas, entertainment centres and factory outlets offering amazing discounts.

Photo of Tainan City, Taiwan by Taiwan Tourism

I came back with a reinforced faith in this nation that takes safety and security to quite another level. I had left forgotten my SLR-camera at one railway platform and realised only half way to my destination. Alert Officials immediately came to my rescue. With no fuss, they handed back my camera at the next station. If I am still basking in the memory of this visit, I need to go again. And for good many reasons!

For more details on Taiwan, follow their official Youtube Channel!

Obviously, I didn’t stand a chance so I decided to soak in Ubud’s beautiful arty atmosphere instead . But wherever I went, people weren’t willing to let me forget him. They were more than willing to part with information on this important man who has become a tourist attraction. I realized how Ketut has become even more popular after the book has become a Julia Roberts-starrer .

One café owner told me that Ketut has many overseas visitors everyday. Another volunteered to inform me that Ketut’s family is fiercely protective about him and would not even let him act in the movie. Apparently, someone else had to play his role!

Anyway, I already had an agenda: to scout for affordable art. And it helped that I took tips from friends who already did the Ubud track. For instance, I knew exactly where to head when I wanted to feast on sumptuous authentic Balinese fare.

Yes, for that unforgettable meal of Babi Guling or traditional roasted suckling pig, I wasted no time in locating Ibu Oka, a little eatery that specializes in it. The lunchtime line only confirms its popularity. Am told, the eatery has two pigs a day and shuts shop when the supply run out. That way, only fresh food is served!

I also knew how and where to buy paintings and negotiate the right price. With these handy tips in mind, most of my days were spent wandering around the street looking for appropriate art with my husband. And even though our guide was adamant on taking us to galleries for his own selfish reasons, we still had our way.

So we began with the art villages around Ubud known for stone and wood craft. In fact these are the best things about Ubud. Our first stop was Batubulan, known for stone art, just 20 minutes off Ubud. There are about 4000 villagers here and going by the looks of it, every home must have an artist or two.

Ubud known for stone and wood craft. In fact these are the best things about Ubud. Our first stop was Batubulan, known for stone art, just 20 minutes off Ubud. There are about 4000 villagers here and going by the looks of it, every home must have an artist or two.

THE FINE ART OF BARGAINING!
All along the street there are rows of stone sculptures on display. Sculptures of Buddha crafted in lava stone or Ganeshas intricately crafted in sandstone... Even though I knew I would never be able to take home those beautiful pieces, I visited many boutique-cum-residences along the street.

It’s a common to see family members bond over work. One member would sharpen his tool while the other would slowly rub the unfinished stone to soften and giveit a final shape. And one member would be entertaining the guests’ many queries. That the Balinese are an enterprising lot becomes quite clear!

In another adjoining village called Mas, which is said to be where the modern wood carving of Bali orginated , I was immediately in awe of what I saw. Again there were rows of wood carvings as if in an exhibition of masterpieces . Nearly every home had a woodcarving workshop . I surveyed as many pieces I possibly could and felt contented doing that.
Unlike Batubulan and Mas, Ubud hasn’t specialized in just one form of art, which makes it easy for shoppers. It has a mix: paintings (contemporary and traditional), plenty of wood carvings and, of course, galleries stocking all sorts of art.
And the navigable size of Ubud helps. It’s easy to explore by walking around. The first day I went around the place in a hired taxi with a guide just to know my way around. The second and third day I was on my own exploring places and wandering around. I had also gotten rid of my guide who only wanted to take me to a certain art gallery!

he main town was quite crowded with tourists looking for things and haggling for best bargains. At the famous Pasar Seni, a buzzing art market, I picked up various sizes of oil-on-canvas . That too, after a lengthy session of bargaining with the artist who was also managing the store at the same time! I went right past all the sovenior shops selling batik tee shirts, bags and what not; instead I focused on all kinds of paintings.

A word of caution, however, language can be quite a barrier especially when negotiating prices! But I soon figured out how to go about this. For instance, when I went to a gallery and liked a particular painting of a baby monk in maroon rope resting on an elephant, I asked for a calculator and asked them to quote their figure in dollars.

hey happily put down their price. If that price was agreeable to me, I would nod my head or else I’d take the calculator and put down my figure. They would reciprocate in the same manner. If they agreed, they would say “okay” ; if not, they would smile and say sorry and then put down their figure!
One thing I noticed was that the Balinese are soft spoken and utterly polite. Even if you ramble into their shop and buy nothing at the end of nearly an hour’s exercise of literally checking out everything , they are most likely to smile and say a gracious thank you. But street hawkers are like leeches!

Make a mistake of even eying their products and you commit to buy the piece. It happened to me. My fault was eying a beautifully hand crafted wooden toy bicycle. I parted with ten dollars reluctantly . And now the memory of Ubud lies in that handcrafted bicycle that stands on my study table at home. But the paintings I lugged back by hand now grace many more corners of my home!

https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/magazines/travel/ubud-far-from-the-madding-crowds-in-bali/articleshow/6334716.cms
The Economics Times, August 19, 2010

So, long before the Philippines Airlines began operation, I had set my heart on the island and many times thought of a trip that never materialized for my reluctance to waste that extra bit of hours by flying via other Southeast Asian countries. So last June, soon after their national carrier started its direct flight from New Delhi to Manila and other metro cities, I made sure I took the first few flights to explore the island.

And funnily, the first thing I did on reaching Manila, the buzzing capital, was take my guide, Lusa, by surprise, by asking her all about the lady who now leads a not-so-quiet life mentoring her politician son. All through my trip, poor Lusa was bombarded with all sorts of questions about Imelda Marcos. But then, on quite another level, my trip to the Philippines wasn’t just about gathering old news of this once powerful lady. In fact, it was much more than that. As it turned out, it was a discovery of a new world that is, in many ways significantly close to the world I belong, the Northeast.

Even though the island has been colonized for over three centuries by Spain and there’s an unmistakable and obvious Hispanic influence, people are still rooted in their Asian roots and culture. And in the many places that I ventured around in the different islands, I saw glimpses of cultural affinity with that of Northeast and could not help but compare the two worlds separated by thousands of geographical miles yet strangely linked by a distinct thread running through their food, music and culture. The long stretch of paddy fields and the rice terrace cultivation only accentuate the similarity of the two worlds. In their culture, I saw a reflection of our very own. In their meekness, gentleness and simplicity, I saw an unmistakable Northeastern trait and that drew me close to them instantly. In their love for food, especially pork that they relish with rice which is their staple diet, I saw a bond that’s intrinsic and deep. Their love for music and fondness for guitar struck a familiar tone in my heart. It felt quite like home except for the sandy beaches and shores that are filled with tourists basking in the sun.

One of the many nights at a glitzy shopping mall in Makati city, I envied them for the well-lit city that is theirs with a calm sense of atmosphere. By night, bars and restaurants come alive with music, aroma of freshly-made food and energy from the young and old locals rubbing shoulders with tourists from far away seeking a clean high under the neon light. Instead of reveling in the mood, my thoughts went rather far from that noisy pub in Manila all the way to the Northeast that’s gripped in perpetual darkness after sunset. Thoughts of home are never far away especially when you know there are so many elements that remind you of home in a place that’s topographically and culturally close to home.
Their part of food which is still untouched by the Hispanic lure is quite close to that of the Northeast in some ways. They feast on their pork abodo with the same passion as we do to our pork dishes. Lechon is another favourite pork dish which is prepared by roasting a whole pig over charcoal. Does that ring a bell?

And when in Cebu, a beautiful island which is apparently the first Spanish settlement in the island, which is just 45 minutes away from Manila, I felt victim of greed and had to be bed ridden with no energy felt until Lusa got me their version of kichidi that recharged my system back to work. The rice-based preparation with lots of vegetables reminded me of the Angamis’ galho, which I got hooked to while I studied briefly in Kohima in junior school. Much later when I gained enough strength to resume my exploration, I stood in front of Ferdinand Magellan’s statue that was towering over trees and bushes in a well-maintained complex. Magellan was a Spanish explorer whose statue is now tourists’ delight. All along the gated complex are small souvenir shops filled with guitars of all shapes and sizes. Filipinos
love to sing and music is a natural phenomenon for them. It is said that every home must have a singer and a guitarist. And quite like Northeasterns, they hardly need to learn music formally as music is in
their genes and they learn to strum the guitar just as naturally as they learn to walk.
I came away thinking how two worlds could be so close culturally, yet be apart physically.
The Northeast Today, October 31, 2015
https://thenortheasttoday.com/philippines-so-close-yet-so-far-away/

In this Finnish city, time has slowed down and life moves at its own sweet pace, says Hoihnu Hauzel

If you're thinking of a get-away-from-it-all vacation, Turku in Finland may not be the first name that springs to mind. But I had spent a few days in Helsinki and wanted to get even further away from it all in a place that was quiet and restful — but not too difficult to get to.

So, when someone suggested Turku it sounded just right. It's Finland's third largest city and it's only a 30-minute drive from Helsinki. Of course, by Indian standards it's quite tiny with a population of just 1.8 lakh.

And, I must say, Turku more than lived up to my expectations. As I wandered around, I spotted people cycling and strolling along the banks of the river Aura. Others were pushing their toddlers around in prams and strollers. Even the cars seemed to not be in a hurry — of course, I may have been imagining that.

Turku Castle last saw battle during the Second World War when it was damaged by the Russians

I reached Turku in early May, and spring had brought out daffodils and wild flowers in every nook and corner of the pretty city. In the evenings, the gentle breeze from the Aura brought the townspeople out for a stroll on the river bank.

Summer is, of course, the nicest time of the year in Turku. The Finns do things very differently and the city goes on an official summer break between June and July when all institutions and shops are shut. At this time of year, a large number of Finns head off to their summer villas. It's reckoned that out of a population 5.2 million Finns about 500,000 have summer homes. I couldn't help thinking that the Finns have figured out what a good, balanced life is all about.

My guide to take me round this historic city was Lotta Back, a Swedish-speaking Finn born in Kokkola, a small town in western Finland, who has made Turku her home. This is, incidentally, a university town, with two universities and a polytechnic, and about 25,000 of its inhabitants are students.

At the Luostarinmäki handicrafts museum there are original wooden houses that survived Turku’s Great Fire that destroyed 75 per cent of the city

But don't for a moment imagine that the laidback pace of life in this quaint little city stops the residents of Turku from partying. Even though I struggled to get used to the unusually long days — the sun doesn't set till 10.30pm during spring — I watched people around me gearing up for a good time every evening. Every pub I came across was packed, and the music and parties went on till dawn. And I suspect the people get into office pretty early too — how they manage that I do not know.

My tour of the city began at the historic Turku Castle, which is strategically situated on one bank of the Aura. It was built in the late 13th century, and is, together with the Turku Cathedral, one of the country's oldest medieval buildings.

The most famous story around the castle took place in the 16th century, when the beautiful Swedish queen, Karin Mnsdotter was held prisoner here. One story goes that King Eric XIV of Sweden spotted her selling nuts at a square in Stockholm and instantly fell in love. But I was assured by my guide Lotta that Karin Mnsdotter actually worked as a maid to the king's sister when he made her his mistress.

Turku Castle survived a major fire in 1614, when it was almost entirely destroyed. It was damaged further in 1941, during World War II when Finland fought its hopeless David- vs-Goliath battle against the then Soviet Union. The castle was completely renovated and restored to its present state in 1987.

Map by Nilratan Maity. Not to scale

The people of Turku are keenly aware of its history, and they ensure that the younger generation too stay connected to their roots. Throughout my tour of the city I noticed children on educational trips of the city's major monuments — a part of their school syllabus, I was informed.

Like the castle, the late 13th century Turku Cathedral too has stood the test of time. The cathedral was originally built of wood, but was expanded in the 14th and 15th centuries, with stone as the construction material. The present spire of the church tower, constructed after the Great Fire of Turku in 1827, stands 101m above sea level. Over 5,000 people, including Queen Mnsdotter, are buried here.

Another survivor of the Great Fire is the Luostarinmki handicrafts museum, my last stop. This is an open-air museum, with 18 blocks of original 18th- and early 19th-century wooden houses in their original location. This was the single largest area that completely survived the fire that destroyed 75 per cent of the city. Inside the houses now are household items that once were used by its dwellers.

Small cities have an unusual effect on you. My tour left me feeling like I had lived a slice of the lives of the people of Turku. This feeling was made even stronger as I dug into my meal of freshly-plucked baby potatoes tossed with fresh white asparagus. There couldn't have been a better way to wrap up my day.

TRAVEL LOG

Getting there: Finnair flies six days a week from Delhi to Helsinki. Turku is a half-an-hour drive from Helsinki.
Staying there: Both budget and deluxe accommodations are available in Turku.
https://www.telegraphindia.com/1130609/jsp/graphiti/16986091.jsp

The Telegraph, Sunday, June 9, 2013
Photographs by author

(Top) Reindeer-drawn sleighs are a popular mode of transport ; Santa Claus welcomes visitors at his home in the Arctic Circle
Rovaniemi is the official home of Santa and it has turned, over the years, into a giant tourist attraction. The Santa Claus Village located 2km from Rovaniemi Airport is a huge complex with restaurants, café, souvenir shops and Santa Claus’ post office.
Rovaniemi, the capital of Lapland has many things to offer apart from the Santa Claus Village. And even the village is huge. You can spend one full day exploring the complex as I did. I spent lots of time in the jewellery shop and the souvenir stores laden with Christmas goodies and traditional Finnish knives with reindeer horn handles. Knives, apparently, are a big thing with the Finnish.
One tourist hotspot is the Santa Claus Main Post Office where Santa’s letters arrive from around the world. Last year, Santa received about 800,000 letters. The letters are separated according to country and displayed on glass shelves. In another part of the post office, tourists were queuing up to send postcards home.
However, a trip to the village is incomplete unless you stop at Matti Korva’s restaurant. The logwood restaurant with private dining rooms has a sauna just in case you want to rejuvenate yourself before you feast. Saunas, by the way, are a way of life for the Finnish and almost every home has one.
At the restaurant we feasted on mushroom soup and sautéed reindeer meat served on a bed of mashed potatoes and rounded it up with fresh blackberry pie. All through the meal Christmas songs played in the background. Now and then, Matti, a talented musician himself, played along.
But there’s more to Rovaneimi than just the Santa Claus Village. I booked in for the Santa Safari which included activities like reindeer and husky sleigh rides. First we stopped at a reindeer farm and then took a ride on a reindeer sleigh.

Most reindeer farms are owned and looked after by people from the Sami tribe. I was given instructions on how to keep control of the sleigh and then handed the controlling rope. Luckily, the reindeer knew the way so I didn’t have to do much navigating. The ride through the snow lasted for 90 minutes.
But that was nothing compared to riding in the 400cc snowmobile. I replaced my warm hat with a helmet and jumped into the gearless machine which is easier than it looks to operate. Once the engine is on, you accelerate and race through the snow-clad forest.
Two hours away from Rovaniemi in the north is the tiny Luosto Village. We drove through the snow-covered road and we were almost the only vehicle in sight. Here we went on a sleigh ride drawn by huskies and, for good measure, visited an elf workshop.

The first stop was the husky farm. About five to six of the strongest were chosen and tied to the sleigh. Once you are seated on the reindeer fur spread on the sleigh, the animals run as fast as their feet can take them.
This was a bit unnerving as we sped through the snow-covered uneven valley — they were much faster than the reindeer. To my relief after about 30 minutes, the animals returned to base.
At the elves workshop, Tricky Dicky was playing pranks on visitors. Snowby Bowy and absentminded Sweeta were busy teaching guests how to pack gifts.
Our jolly time with the elves was interrupted by a knock at the door. It was a group carol singers carrying candles in their hands as they sang the evergreen carol, Silent Night, Holy Night. We joined them in the chorus and followed it all with steaming hot tea and ginger biscuits. Truly, Finland is the best place in the world to celebrate Christmas.
READY RECKONER

Getting there: Finnair, Finland’s largest airline, operates flights from New Delhi to Helsinki six times a week and from Mumbai to Helsinki four times a week. There are three to four flights to Rovaniemi daily from Helsinki.
Exchange rate: Finland is one of the 15 Euro states. 1 EUR = 64.73 INR
Web watch: www.visitfinland.com

http://www.telegraphindia.com/1081220/jsp/personaltt/story_10274709.jsp

Luxury in the desert
The Amanbagh resort in Alwar, Rajasthan makes the perfect case for exclusive living, says Hoihnu Hauzel

(From top): The sprawling suite at the Aman Pool Pavilion; a view of the swimming pool at dusk;
the bar and lounge area; the Pool Pavilion ; the well-stocked library at the resort

We could have easily missed it. We were driving down narrow, dusty roads with corn and paddy fields on either side and the Aravalli hills in the distance. We’d passed innumerable villages and made way for farmers on overloaded tractors carrying gigantic sacks of grain from their fields. And, we had been warned that our destination had no signboards or hoardings advertising its presence. So, we drove slowly, keeping our eyes peeled in all directions.

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Amanresorts is a global hotel chain famous around the world for its discreet properties that off seclusion as its own special form of exclusivity. And the 18-month-old Amanbagh in Rajasthan’s Alwar district is no different ' it’s camouflaged by its rural surroundings.

So it was hardly surprising that, after driving five hours from Delhi, we almost missed the resort. But, we were saved from the exhausting fate of wandering around Rajasthan like modern-day Flying Dutchmen, by an Aman staffer who suddenly appeared from nowhere to guide us to our destination. In his smart outfit topped by an impressive Rajasthani turban, he led us through what looked like an abandoned path with weeds and trees growing wild on the side. But as we kept driving we suddenly spotted a low-level beige building behind rows of palms.

Our entry into the hotel was very traditional and aimed at the tourists ' foreign ones that is. A petite sari-clad hostess stepped forward and smeared vermilion on our foreheads and tied a mouli (red thread) round our wrists. Then, we were led to our rooms ' or, should I say, apartments because rooms is too inadequate to describe the accommodation at Aman. Amanbagh has been built inside a walled compound where the Maharaja of Alwar’s hunting parties used to camp when they went in search of tigers to shoot. It goes without saying that there are no tigers here nowadays.

I found myself in the splendid Pool Pavilion which, as the name suggests, opens out at the back onto its own pool. To reach the suite, I walked through a courtyard with an impeccably maintained lawn in the middle. As I plunged onto the kingsize bed and sank into the supersoft pillows, I found myself looking up at a domed ceiling above me. In case you are wondering, the Pool Pavilion costs a princely $900 a day.

In the rarified world of luxury travel, Amanresorts is a chain that’s entirely in its own league. The group puts up hotels and resorts in the most unlikely places and still fills its rooms. In fact, there are people who’ve become famous in the world of travel as ‘Aman junkies’ who will travel anywhere the group puts up a hotel ' they aren’t sightseers or ordinary tourists. They simply pay big bucks to get away from it all with Aman.

As I took stock of my suite, I began to understand why. This was a few cuts above the standard five-star room that most hotels provide. The bathtub, for instance, was carved from a single piece of marble and so was a large rectangular table in the living room. The bathroom and the dressing room that led to it were huge. And, of course, there were all the standard extras that one expects in a smart hotel, like a well-stocked bar, a pictorial book and even a music system. With great foresight, I’d brought my own music so I didn't have to listen to ghazals all evening.

What does one do in the lap of luxury' In one word: swim. I eased myself into my private pool and stayed there all morning till I was exhausted and ready for lunch. So, I caught up with my friend who was waiting for me and checked out the restaurant with its soft lighting and paintings of birds on the walls. What were the most unusual dishes on offer here' Well, for a start there were four types of organic salads and a few organic side dishes. Amanbagh grows its own vegetables and herbs.

For foreigners eager to get a feel for the flavours of India, the best option is probably the Indian Tasting Menu for Rs 1,600 per head. That seemed a bit too filling, so we opted for Rajasthani fare. We had Lal Mans (a Rajasthani, gravy-based meat dish), salads and hot naans ' OK, that’s not a very light meal either.

Our food came in silver plates and we drank from silver glasses. The service was extremely quick but perhaps that was because we were the only guests in the restaurant at that time. The only other guests in sight, a French family and a Japanese couple were enjoying their wine and snacks by the pool.

But Amanbagh certainly has enough staff to ensure that your every whim is catered to. And, in any part of the complex, there are always staffers eager to attend to your needs. For about 40 rooms, the resort has an approximate staff strength of 240 people. That means about five to six staff to each room.

After that heavy lunch who would have missed an afternoon siesta' And that’s precisely what I did. Even though I came with lots of plans, I ended up doing nothing but relaxing. I’d thought of heading to spot the wildlife at Sariska, which is only a 35-minute drive. Alternatively, I could’ve trekked to the nearby Somsagar Lake. Strangely I didn’t feel like venturing out. Even my plan to visit the nearby village was abandoned. What happened' Who can tell' Perhaps I was rapidly becoming an Aman junkie.

The only time I stepped out of my room was for a meal. So, to make up for my overindulgences, I stepped into the health club. Surprisingly, compared to the huge rooms, the health club was a bit disappointing. It has only limited equipment and thereÂ’s just enough for three to four guests to work out at the same time.

But the resort’s real beauty is revealed only in the evening. That’s when the sun slowly disappeared and darkness enveloped the complex. Suddenly there was pitch darkness all around and complete silence. Then, the darkness was broken by candles and tiny fairy lights. I watched it all, sitting by the pool.

The next morning was again a new experience for a city-dweller. I was woken early by the chirping of birds. I looked out of my window and saw rich green leaves everywhere. Even the birds looked cheerful and happier than they do in the city. So, I once again surrendered to the calm.

Highlight: Indian residents can avail a 40 per cent discount till September by producing proof of permanent residency. Rates are subject to 10 per cent service charge and 5 per cent tax. Rates include airport transfers between Jaipur and Amangagh.

Photographs courtesy Amanresorts
https://www.telegraphindia.com/1060715/asp/weekend/story_6461230.asp
The Telegraph, Saturday, July 15, 2006