Luxury in the desert

Luxury in the desert
The Amanbagh resort in Alwar, Rajasthan makes the perfect case for exclusive living, says Hoihnu Hauzel

(From top): The sprawling suite at the Aman Pool Pavilion; a view of the swimming pool at dusk;
the bar and lounge area; the Pool Pavilion ; the well-stocked library at the resort

We could have easily missed it. We were driving down narrow, dusty roads with corn and paddy fields on either side and the Aravalli hills in the distance. We’d passed innumerable villages and made way for farmers on overloaded tractors carrying gigantic sacks of grain from their fields. And, we had been warned that our destination had no signboards or hoardings advertising its presence. So, we drove slowly, keeping our eyes peeled in all directions.

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Amanresorts is a global hotel chain famous around the world for its discreet properties that off seclusion as its own special form of exclusivity. And the 18-month-old Amanbagh in Rajasthan’s Alwar district is no different ' it’s camouflaged by its rural surroundings.

So it was hardly surprising that, after driving five hours from Delhi, we almost missed the resort. But, we were saved from the exhausting fate of wandering around Rajasthan like modern-day Flying Dutchmen, by an Aman staffer who suddenly appeared from nowhere to guide us to our destination. In his smart outfit topped by an impressive Rajasthani turban, he led us through what looked like an abandoned path with weeds and trees growing wild on the side. But as we kept driving we suddenly spotted a low-level beige building behind rows of palms.

Our entry into the hotel was very traditional and aimed at the tourists ' foreign ones that is. A petite sari-clad hostess stepped forward and smeared vermilion on our foreheads and tied a mouli (red thread) round our wrists. Then, we were led to our rooms ' or, should I say, apartments because rooms is too inadequate to describe the accommodation at Aman. Amanbagh has been built inside a walled compound where the Maharaja of Alwar’s hunting parties used to camp when they went in search of tigers to shoot. It goes without saying that there are no tigers here nowadays.

I found myself in the splendid Pool Pavilion which, as the name suggests, opens out at the back onto its own pool. To reach the suite, I walked through a courtyard with an impeccably maintained lawn in the middle. As I plunged onto the kingsize bed and sank into the supersoft pillows, I found myself looking up at a domed ceiling above me. In case you are wondering, the Pool Pavilion costs a princely $900 a day.

In the rarified world of luxury travel, Amanresorts is a chain that’s entirely in its own league. The group puts up hotels and resorts in the most unlikely places and still fills its rooms. In fact, there are people who’ve become famous in the world of travel as ‘Aman junkies’ who will travel anywhere the group puts up a hotel ' they aren’t sightseers or ordinary tourists. They simply pay big bucks to get away from it all with Aman.

As I took stock of my suite, I began to understand why. This was a few cuts above the standard five-star room that most hotels provide. The bathtub, for instance, was carved from a single piece of marble and so was a large rectangular table in the living room. The bathroom and the dressing room that led to it were huge. And, of course, there were all the standard extras that one expects in a smart hotel, like a well-stocked bar, a pictorial book and even a music system. With great foresight, I’d brought my own music so I didn't have to listen to ghazals all evening.

What does one do in the lap of luxury' In one word: swim. I eased myself into my private pool and stayed there all morning till I was exhausted and ready for lunch. So, I caught up with my friend who was waiting for me and checked out the restaurant with its soft lighting and paintings of birds on the walls. What were the most unusual dishes on offer here' Well, for a start there were four types of organic salads and a few organic side dishes. Amanbagh grows its own vegetables and herbs.

For foreigners eager to get a feel for the flavours of India, the best option is probably the Indian Tasting Menu for Rs 1,600 per head. That seemed a bit too filling, so we opted for Rajasthani fare. We had Lal Mans (a Rajasthani, gravy-based meat dish), salads and hot naans ' OK, that’s not a very light meal either.

Our food came in silver plates and we drank from silver glasses. The service was extremely quick but perhaps that was because we were the only guests in the restaurant at that time. The only other guests in sight, a French family and a Japanese couple were enjoying their wine and snacks by the pool.

But Amanbagh certainly has enough staff to ensure that your every whim is catered to. And, in any part of the complex, there are always staffers eager to attend to your needs. For about 40 rooms, the resort has an approximate staff strength of 240 people. That means about five to six staff to each room.

After that heavy lunch who would have missed an afternoon siesta' And that’s precisely what I did. Even though I came with lots of plans, I ended up doing nothing but relaxing. I’d thought of heading to spot the wildlife at Sariska, which is only a 35-minute drive. Alternatively, I could’ve trekked to the nearby Somsagar Lake. Strangely I didn’t feel like venturing out. Even my plan to visit the nearby village was abandoned. What happened' Who can tell' Perhaps I was rapidly becoming an Aman junkie.

The only time I stepped out of my room was for a meal. So, to make up for my overindulgences, I stepped into the health club. Surprisingly, compared to the huge rooms, the health club was a bit disappointing. It has only limited equipment and thereÂ’s just enough for three to four guests to work out at the same time.

But the resort’s real beauty is revealed only in the evening. That’s when the sun slowly disappeared and darkness enveloped the complex. Suddenly there was pitch darkness all around and complete silence. Then, the darkness was broken by candles and tiny fairy lights. I watched it all, sitting by the pool.

The next morning was again a new experience for a city-dweller. I was woken early by the chirping of birds. I looked out of my window and saw rich green leaves everywhere. Even the birds looked cheerful and happier than they do in the city. So, I once again surrendered to the calm.

Highlight: Indian residents can avail a 40 per cent discount till September by producing proof of permanent residency. Rates are subject to 10 per cent service charge and 5 per cent tax. Rates include airport transfers between Jaipur and Amangagh.

Photographs courtesy Amanresorts
https://www.telegraphindia.com/1060715/asp/weekend/story_6461230.asp
The Telegraph, Saturday, July 15, 2006